The Far East

Crete

The East Coast remains one of Crete's least visited regions, yet it encapsulates everything that makes a holiday relaxing, enjoyable and memorable. Majestic landscapes, unspoilt sandy beaches, local archaeological treasures, simple but delicious food and acceptance into the unhurried local lifestyle all combine to make it a place that those in the know return to time after time.

The pretty port town of Sitia, famous for its wine, now even available in our supermarkets, and its excellent olive oil, is the heart of the area. Here you can visit the recently restored fortress, followed by a leisurely lunch on the wide waterfront watching the locals absorbed in backgammon and the ferries and fishing boats come and go. The excellent sandy beach is perfect for a relaxed afternoon swim followed by a doze before joining the locals in their pre-dinner stroll along the paved waterfront.

For a truly relaxing beach holiday in the traditional style the charming village of Palekastro is hard to beat. Only half-an-hour's drive from Sitia, Palekastro is a proper Cretan village, where you can experience true friendliness and hospitality mingling with the locals in the central village square whilst dallying over a coffee, or even a raki, after purchasing your daily needs in the local shops. The square and imposing local church are also the scene of regular local festivals and weddings and everyone is welcome to participate.

There are two main beach areas, each a couple of kilometres from the centre of the village. Chiona Beach is a protected archaeological area as well as being home to an excellent fish taverna; Kouremenos Beach has two further tavernas and extends to the little working fishing harbour. Both beaches are ideal for spending lazy days swimming, snorkelling and reading. In between the two beaches a recent addition to the area is an extremely well run windsurfing school.

The immediate surroundings provide excellent opportunities for walkers to explore the footpaths and discover hidden coves. Slightly further afield is the wealthy Toplou Monastery, the site and beach of Itanos and the famous palm beach at Vai, although the latter is crowded each day with day trippers from the island's busier resorts with the ranks of sunbeds and jet skis making it appear light years away from Palekastro. In the other direction the site and beach of Kato Zakros make a much more relaxing day out, as does a drive around the small villages in the hinterland.

To the south of Palekastro the hamlet of Xerocampos remains a true outpost, perfect for escaping the pressures of 21st century living and letting the raw powers of nature recharge your batteries. The village's twin bays are encircled by the hauntingly stark and dramatic Sitia Mountains. A single road zigzags down the hillside towards the first bay and its strand of beach guarded by two rocky islets. Just over the small headland in the second bay lies a magnificent sand beach broken only by a few low sandstone outcrops and Minoan remains that many believe to be ancient Ambelos.

The hamlet behind the beach has just one short main street and, during the summer season, five scattered tavernas, a small minimarket and a handful of dwellings and apartments for rent. By day visitors laze by the sea, swim and snorkel, walk the hillsides, watch the seasonal migratory birds or take to the winding road or bumpy northern track to explore the surrounding villages and sites. By night the tavernas serve fresh food together with copious wine and raki all to be enjoyed under the velvety star studded sky.

Beach near Palekastro