La Gomera

The Canary Islands › La Gomera

Just 40 minutes by catamaran-ferry from the port of Los Cristianos, the small island of La Gomera provides a stunning contrast to the barren landscape and brash commercialism of Tenerife's southwest coast.

Measuring just 25 km at its widest point, La Gomera has always been a remote, scarcely populated backwater, and whilst communications have improved significantly over the last two decades - thanks to the introduction of the high-speed ferry, the opening of the small airport for inter-island flights and the construction of better roads on the island itself - La Gomera remains gloriously unspoilt. Like all of the Western Canary Islands, La Gomera is remarkable not for its beaches but for its dramatic mountain scenery, and the island's authorities have been successful in carefully managing the local tourist industry so that it should not conflict with their efforts to conserve their island's unique natural beauty and cultural traditions.

Visitors come to La Gomera not primarily in search of sun, sea and sand, but to relax in peaceful surroundings, to escape the pressures of 21st century living and - above all - explore the island's marvellously varied landscapes on foot. Undoubtedly the greatest lure for keen walkers is the Garajonay National Park. Located in the centre of the island, this dense 4,000-hectare rain forest is the largest and most complete example of laurasilva left in the world (a similar woodland of laurels, ferns and giant heather trees would have covered much of southern Europe until it was destroyed by the last ice age). On La Gomera, a distinct microclimate, which almost permanently covers this central high plateau almost in mist, provides the necessary humidity for this unique ecosystem to continually thrive. Whilst the scenery is magnificent even from the road, we would strongly recommend packing a pair of sturdy boots and setting off on one of the many footpaths that cross the national park.

Elsewhere, the island boasts fabulous coastal paths, some striking waterfalls, and no shortage of stunning valleys, gorges and ravines. The most majestic of these is the Valle Gran Rey, the Valley of the Great King, which fans out towards the island's west coast. Over the centuries, hard-working farmers have carved narrow agricultural terraces from the steep walls of the valley, many of which are still cultivated today. Where the valley meets the sea, there is a string of pebble and black sand beaches, and it was here that the first foreign visitors - mostly hippies seeking respite from the commercialism of the coastal resorts of the Mediterranean - made their base. Since then, Valle Gran Rey has grown into the island's main resort, but it remains true to its slightly alternative, eco-friendly roots, with most of the accommodation in small self- catering complexes and just one medium-sized hotel. And whilst most visitors will make use of the resort's beaches (which include a naturist beach set slightly away from the village) at least once or twice during their stay, nature-based activities such as hiking and mountain biking remain higher on most visitors' agendas.

The only other "beach resort" on the island is Playa de Santiago on the south coast, which boasts a pebbly beach as well as the island's only golf course. Other serviceable beaches can be found just outside the island capital, San Sebastián. With just 8,000 inhabitants, San Sebastián is more of a sleepy provincial town than a thriving metropolis, but it does make a very pleasant place to while away an afternoon or two. Take a stroll along the picturesque Calle Real, where you can visit the well from which Columbus filled his ships with drinking water to last for his voyage to the Americas; take a glance at the 15th-century Torre del Conde (tower of the count) and marvel at the many types of blossoming plants in the surrounding park; or just relax in one of the cafés and enjoy the disarmingly unhurried atmosphere of a town where the only event of any note seems to be the arrival of the ferry boat from Tenerife.

Given how laid-back La Gomera's capital is, it should come as no surprise to find that the more rural villages are positively sleepy, and whilst few of them boast any must-see sights, places such as Hermigua and Vallehermoso are well worth visiting for their picturesque appearance and traditional charm. Venturing deep into the island's rugged interior, you may even hear locals "talking" to each other in El Silbo, La Gomera's unique whistling language which made it possible to communicate across the steep ravines that slice through the island in the days before mobile phones were invented.

La Gomera Holidays:

Apartments La Hila

Apartments La Hila

San SebastiánSituated in the island capital's old town, these practical apartments are ideal for independently-minded travellers seeking a convenient base amongst the local population.

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Hotel Torre del Conde

Hotel Torre del Conde

San SebastiánA small hotel situated in the centre of the little island capital, ideal for independently-minded travellers seeking authentic surroundings

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Parador Conde de La Gomera

Parador Conde de La Gomera

San SebastiánDesigned in the style of a traditional Canarian mansion, this prestigious hotel offers stylish accommodation and fine cuisine in a stunning clifftop setting.

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Casas del Lomo

Casas del Lomo

Chejelipes near San SebastianSix individual cottages set amidst farmland in a rural valley, just a short drive from the island capital San Sebastian.

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Casa Doña Rosario

Casa Doña Rosario

Playa SantiagoA sympathetically restored Canarian village house, converted into four charming holiday apartments, situated in a quiet residential area in Playa Santiago

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Casa Las Uvas

Casa Las Uvas

AlajeróTwo charming apartments on the edge of the hill village of Alajeró, roughly halfway between the small south coast resort of Playa Santiago and the Garajonay National Park

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Hotel Gran Rey

Hotel Gran Rey

Valle Gran ReyThis comfortable and welcoming hotel stands on the seafront in Valle Gran Rey, making it a good base for those wishing to relax by the seaside as well as explore further afield.

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Apartments Baia del Secreto

Apartments Baia del Secreto

Valle Gran ReyAn attractive cluster of couple and family-sized apartments with a good-size swimming pool in a seafront setting close to the harbour

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Jardín del Conde

Jardín del Conde

Valle Gran ReyArranged around a large freeform swimming pool, these attractive apartments are well-situated near the fishing harbour of Vueltas.

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Apartments Llano Residencial

Apartments Llano Residencial

Valle Gran ReyModern and well appointed apartments set around a central garden and swimming pool a short stroll from the harbour

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Casa Humberto

Casa Humberto

Valle Gran ReyThese simple studios and apartments are situated in Vueltas, close to Valle Gran Rey's fishing harbour, and offer a warm personal welcome.

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Aparthotel Playa Calera

Aparthotel Playa Calera

Valle Gran ReyThis modern, medium-size hotel offers comfortable accommodation in a convenient setting, with spectacular sea and mountain views from its rooftop pool terrace

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Apartments Las Mozas

Apartments Las Mozas

Valle Gran ReyA small block of apartments with a rooftop pool in a convenient location in the centre of Valle Gran Rey's Playa district, with the option to book breakfast or half-board at a nearby hotel.

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Apartments Tres Palmeras

Apartments Tres Palmeras

Valle Gran ReyA low-rise complex of practical self-catering apartments in a convenient seafront position close to local restaurants, shops and beaches

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Apartments Los Tarajales

Apartments Los Tarajales

Valle Gran ReyQuietly yet conveniently situated on the seafront just a short walk from Valle Gran Rey's main beach, these practical studios and apartments stand in pretty gardens and boast a decent-size swimming pool

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Finca La Maleza

Finca La Maleza

Near AguloA character cottage in a secluded location close to the edge of the Garajonay National Park

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