The Eastern South Coast

Crete

Makriyialos, thanks to the 'long beach' from which it takes its name, has grown from the sleepy fishing port it once was into a small, friendly resort. The magic of Makriyialos lies hidden behind an unpromising row of buildings in the one main street. You need only take a few steps onto the beach and the seemingly horizonless Libyan Sea is your only vista or take a short walk in the direction of the mountains and you will be in entirely agricultural territory. It is the ideal choice for those who wish to swim, walk or explore by day but crave a little more variety in the evenings and is an especially good choice for families with differing interests.

The area has a wealth of lesser known archaeological sites and monasteries as well as countless walks, (try the seven-kilometre walk from Pefki at sunrise, rounded off by breakfast on the beach in Makriyialos). If all that is too energetic, the beach is well provided with sunbeds and umbrellas and some low-key water-sports are available. As night falls the waterfront bars and tavernas become a magnet with something for all tastes.

Heading westwards from Makriyialos, Ferma is one of the villages and hamlets fringing the coastline that has been welcoming visitors of all nationalities for a number of years, although tourism here is still low key and appealingly laid back. Although the area now has a number of scattered hotels and apartments, it still boasts uncrowded expanses of beach and a very relaxed atmosphere, making it perfect for a lazy seaside holiday or as a base for exploring the traditional villages that lie just inland.

From here it is a short drive to Ierapetra, the largest town in southern Crete, reputedly the sunniest in Europe. The town now derives its main income from the fruit and vegetables grown in the ubiquitous plastic greenhouses but for the centuries between Minoan and Roman times it was an important trading port. The relatively few visitors stroll along the lively waterfront choosing where to eat, or mingle with the locals in the maze of streets in the centre of town and hunt for bargains as well as the remains of the town's former glory. Most visitors to Ierapetra however are passing through to embark on a boat trip for a day's relaxation on the sands of the idyllic Chrissi Island.

The coastline south of Heraklion and west of Ierapetra is scenically spectacular and yet has managed to escape the attention of most tourists. Many visitors may drive along the mountain roads pausing to take photographs but few are aware of the delightful seaside hamlets hidden between the folds in the mountains.

Keratocambos is one such hamlet, reached by winding road via the very traditional agricultural village of Chondras, allegedly inhabited since Minoan times. After skirting a rocky gorge, tantalising glimpses of the twin beachside settlements of Kastri and Keratocambos begin to appear. Here there are a few general stores providing the basics, a few tavernas beside the tamarisk-shaded beach, a limited amount of holiday accommodation and an uncrowded expanse of beach - pebble with a few scattered sandy patches - stretching way beyond the village towards the east. Most summer visitors just relax and enjoy the laid-back ambience or perhaps visit the colourful local town of Ano Vianno, with its ornate churches and Folk Museum, maybe a drive up to visit the ancient shrine to Hermes and Aphrodite at Symi and lunch in the village taverna.

Further west, across the fertile Messara plain lies the low key beach resort of Kalimaki. From here the possibilities for local exploration not only include the famous archaeological sites of Phaestos, Agia Triada and Gortys but numerous beachside villages, including Matala, made famous by its many illustrious visitors who camped in its caves during the heyday of the hippy era.

Makriyialos harbour