The Kaya Valley

Turkey

It is the combination of an exquisite natural setting with a poignant sense of history which makes a visit to the Kaya Valley so memorable. Many holidaymakers to Turkey visit the 'ghost town' of Kaya on a day trip, but only by staying in the valley can you fully appreciate the unique magic of this special place.

Although situated between the bustling town of Fethiye and the popular beach resort of Oludeniz, and thus easily accessible, the Kaya Valley has a delightfully rural feel, with the fertile red soil of this small plain yielding quality tobacco, almonds and black figs. In the spring, the area is sprinkled with wild flowers, whilst from midsummer the herbs take over, filling the air with the aromatic scent of oregano, sage and thyme. Scattered amidst the fields and orchards are small hamlets and clusters of old stone houses, as well as a handful of restaurants and little shops for your basic day-to-day needs.

The original village of Kayakoy sprawls up one of the hillsides, clearly visible from far afield. A city in Lycian times and a small but thriving town during the Byzantine era, the village has been all but deserted since the population exchange of the 1920s, which followed the Greco-Turkish war. Until then a successfully integrated community, where 'Turkish' Muslims and 'Greek' Christians lived peacefully side by side, Kaya was the last place from where the Greeks were expelled in 1926, sending the village into steep decline, as the Turks who had been sent here to occupy the abandoned houses opted instead to build new hamlets on the plains below.

Wandering through Kayakoy's steep, narrow lanes is a profoundly moving experience, especially early in the morning before the excursion coaches arrive, or late in the day when the evening sun paints the crumbling facades in a warm, mellow glow. Amidst the ruined houses, there are three churches, including the Panayia Pyrgiotissa basilica with its reasonably well preserved murals, mosaic floor and marble altar screen, and a charnel house still containing the bones of earlier generations.

Kaya's troubled history is vibrantly brought to life in Louis de Bernière's novel, Birds Without Wings, so you may be well advised to visit before the book is made into a film, and puts the village firmly onto the map. Luckily, strict conservation guidelines are in place to preserve the valley's unique appeal, and there are no large hotels or apartment complexes, just a few basic pensions, some restored cottages and a number of discreet private villas, the cream of which you will find on the pages that follow.

Whilst Kaya's serene ambience makes it perfect for complete rest and relaxation, the area also offers superb walking for the more energetic, including the ancient road down to Fethiye and trails down to the famous lagoon of Oludeniz and to the much less frequented beach of Gemiler. Oludeniz and Fethiye can be reached by public dolmus, whilst a hire car will enable you to explore some of the other interesting archaeological sites of Western and Central Lycia.

The old deserted village