|
Terceira was the third island to be settled, and is also the third island in
size, but its unimaginative name doesn’t do the island justice. Its undulating
pasturelands divided by dry stone walls could be mistaken for parts of
Derbyshire, but black volcanic terraces, peaks and lakes and the central 15
kilometre crater, Caldeira de Guilherme Moniz, are dinctinctly Azorean and are
especially popular with walkers, as are the atmospheric caves and grottoes
hollowed out of the lava by escaping gases.
The main attraction of the island is the capital, Angra do Heroismo, made a
UNESCO World Heritage Site over two decades ago. It was the first settlement in
the Atlantic to be declared a city and its sheltered harbour and strategic
location made it a major trading port for ships bearing spices and jewels from
the Orient, gold and silver from the Americas and all manner of other exotic
goods. Impressive buildings attest to the city’s multinational influences and
former.
Angra played a pivotal part in the struggle with the Spanish for domination
of the trade routes, and was the last Portuguese city to fall to them. The
impressive fort on Monte Brasil, the dormant volcano that dominates the harbour,
is a lasting monument to those turbulent times and the city certainly earned the
‘do Heroismo’ epithet that was later added to its name. A decisive moment in
the campaign was when a local monk had the idea of loosing 1,000 bulls on the
advancing troops who, not surprisingly, withdrew rather rapidly. This inspired
the ‘Tourada a Corda’, a bizarre summer tradition, where specially bred
bulls are brought into each village in turn and let loose into the streets,
albeit on the end of a very long rope. The men of the village display their
courage by approaching the bulls in a good-natured and bloodless sport; any
injuries to their pride are soon mended as the whole village parties into the
night.
Another striking feature of the island is the ubiquitous ‘Imperios’,
small brightly painted chapels dedicated to the cult of the Holy Spirit. There
are about 70 of these, built during the end of the 19th and beginning of the
20th century, inspired by the charitable works of Queen Isabella of Aragon. On
local feast days a special soup, ‘Sopa do Espirito Santo’, is served to
all-comers from a table in front of the altar.
Along with all its cultural quirks and natural beauty, Terceira has a number of
large agricultural estates with their own impressive manor houses, laid back
beach resorts such as Praia da Vittoria, pretty fishing villages such as São
Mateus da Calheta and its own wine producing area around Biscoitos. There is
certainly more than enough to keep its visitors happy, in all senses of the word.
|
