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Built like a natural amphitheatre on a series of hills surrounding a sweeping bay,
Madeira's capital Funchal is undoubtedly one of Portugal's most stunningly situated
cities. The beauty of this setting is further enhanced by the city's graceful colonial
architecture and by its abundance of lovingly tended parks and gardens, a legacy of
the island's long British connection, which was first fostered through the trade in
Madeira's famous wines.
Funchal is a city of beguiling contrasts, and perhaps the most striking contrast is
between the palatial hotels of the modern hotel zone, set on the cliffs just west of the
city centre and the unpretentious, picturesque back streets of the "Zona Velha", the
old town quarter just to the east. As we feel that most of our guests prefer more
traditional and authentic surroundings, most of our properties are situated in the old
town, which is full of atmospheric restaurants and inexpensive cafés, where you can
get a real taste of local life.
Funchal's centre is reasonably flat and boasts some excellent shopping streets, a
colourful covered market, and numerous stately old buildings, including an imposing
cathedral and a lovely theatre. An elegant seafront promenade runs the length of the
bay, past the port, the marina and a rocky but adequate town beach. Behind the town
centre, the roads start climbing steeply into the hills, and it is here that many of the
town's most desirable residential areas can be found, along with the famous botanical
gardens and impressive old manor houses. Looking up at the hills at night, the lights
twinkle like a firmament, where the brightest constellation is the twin-towered church
of Monte, a popular excursion spot during the day, especially since the completion of
the cable car ride, which takes visitors from the seafront to an altitude of 600 metres
in minutes, with breathtaking views along the way. After taking in the splendid
Monte Palace Gardens, you can start your return to the town by racing down the steep cobbled
streets in to the suburb of Livamento, in an old wicker toboggan.
For those who wish to be close to Funchal yet prefer a more rural setting, we also
offer a selection of properties just outside the city. Just 15 minutes' drive to the west,
in the heart of the island's most famous wine growing area is the village of Estreito de
Câmara de Lobos, which boasts stunning views down to the Atlantic and some
excellent walking terrain. A similar distance east, conveniently situated between
Funchal and the airport, are the quiet village of Caniço and the relaxing seaside resort
of Caniço de Baixo, which is set on the shores of an underwater nature reserve and
boasts an excellent scuba diving centre, as well as a small rocky beach and a public
lido. Caniço de Baixo has a few restaurants and a regular bus service to Funchal,
making it a convenient base for those seeking a peaceful location without the need to
hire a car.
Heading further east and inland from here, you will come to Santo da Serra, a small
village set on a natural plateau. Home to one of Madeira's two golf courses (the other
one is closer to Funchal at Palheiro), the wooded hills around Santo da Serra also
offer some scenic and – by Madeiran standards – rather gentle terrain for walking.
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