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Madeira’s south west coast is a dramatic landscape of
rugged cliffs and steep wooded slopes, punctuated by lush valleys where
picturesque villages nestle and lush banana plantations and vineyards thrive.
Until the fairly recent opening of the new highway from Funchal to
Ribeira Brava - an impressive succession of tunnels and bridges - this region
was remote and inaccessible; in fact villages such as Ponta do Sol, which is now
just half-an-hour’s drive from the capital, could only be reached by boat
until just after the second world war.
Although the journey from the airport is now much
easier, Madeira’s south-western corner remains gloriously unspoilt and little
visited, making it ideal for nature-lovers who will find stunning coastal paths
and beautiful inland levada walks. Whilst
there are no resorts to speak of, the former remoteness of the local villages
makes them appealingly self-contained, with all the facilities needed for a
relaxing, quiet holiday.
Travelling from Funchal or the airport, the highway
brings you as far as Ribeira Brava, an attractive little town situated just west
of the impressive Cabo Girão, the second-highest sea cliff in the world -
vertigo-sufferers are well advised to stay clear! From here, you follow the old road as it winds its way along
the coast to arrive at Ponta do Sol, a picturesque village owing its affluence
to a particularly suitable climate for cultivating bananas.
The next stretch of road is truly breathtaking, as the mountains dive
into the sea almost vertically whilst occasional waterfalls give your car a free
rinse as you continue towards Calheta, once an important trading post for sugar
cane but now just a sleepy village with a picturesque centre, an interesting old
rum distillery, and – something of a rarity on Madeira - a manmade sandy
beach. Continuing along the coast
you will find two further little fishing villages, Jardim do Mar and Paúl do
Mar, beyond which the road starts climbing up into the mountains as it snakes
its way around the island’s western tip at Ponta do Pargo, which is marked by
a lighthouse.
The whole region is a mecca for walkers, with numerous
levadas and other footpaths criss-crossing the stunning countryside.
The beautiful Rabaçal valley, the nearby waterfalls of Risco and 25
Fontes and the windswept high-plateau of Paúl da Serra are certainly all worth
exploring.
Whilst there is much to discover in south-western
Madeira, the area is equally suited to dedicated relaxation-seekers, as its warm
and sunny micro-climate makes it the perfect location for just sitting in the
sun and admiring the splendid scenery.
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